Mastering the art of hemming pants with a sewing machine empowers you to achieve a tailored fit that exudes both style and comfort. Whether you seek to shorten a pair of long trousers or refine the hem of a dress, understanding the proper techniques will guide you towards a flawless execution. By following these comprehensive instructions, you’ll transform your garments into custom-fitted masterpieces that perfectly complement your silhouette.
Before embarking on the hemming process, it’s essential to gather the necessary tools. These include a sewing machine, a measuring tape, marking chalk or fabric pencil, pins, scissors, an iron, and a pressing cloth. Additionally, consider using a dedicated hem gauge or ruler to ensure precise measurements and achieve consistent results. Once your tools are assembled, you’re ready to embark on the transformative journey of hemming your pants with a sewing machine.
To begin, carefully measure and mark the desired hem length on the inside of the pants leg. Allow for a generous margin to accommodate any adjustments or future alterations. Next, fold the fabric up to the marked line, ensuring the hem is even and free of wrinkles. Use pins to secure the fold in place, evenly spaced throughout the hem. Before stitching, double-check the accuracy of your measurements and ensure that the pants are sitting comfortably on your body. With these preparatory steps completed, you’re ready to guide your sewing machine needle through the folded fabric, creating a durable and professional-looking hem.
Choosing the Right Sewing Needle
Needle Size
The needle size refers to its thickness, which is measured in sharps. The thicker the needle, the higher the sharp number. For hemming lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon, a finer needle with a sharp between 70/10 and 80/12 is recommended. For medium-weight fabrics like cotton or linen, a sharp of 90/14 or 100/16 is appropriate. Heavy-duty fabrics such as denim or canvas require a thicker needle with a sharp of 110/18 or 120/19.
Needle Type
The needle type refers to its intended use. For general sewing and hemming, a universal needle with a sharp tip is suitable. It can handle most fabrics. For stretch fabrics, a stretch needle with a slightly rounded tip is designed to stretch with the fabric, preventing skipped stitches. If you’re sewing through multiple layers or thick fabrics, a heavy-duty needle with a reinforced shaft is recommended. Refer to the table below for a summary of needle sizes and types:
Needle Sharpness
Needle sharpness refers to the shape of its point. A sharp point is designed for piercing through fabric fibers, while a blunt point is better for sewing delicate fabrics or fabrics that are prone to fraying. For hemming, a sharp point is generally preferred as it creates clean and precise stitches.
| Fabric Type | Needle Size | Needle Type |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 70/10 – 80/12 | Universal |
| Medium-weight | 90/14 – 100/16 | Universal or Stretch |
| Heavy-weight | 110/18 – 120/19 | Heavy-duty |
Preparing the Pants for Hemming
1. Wash and Iron the Pants
Before you begin hemming, it’s important to wash and iron the pants to remove any wrinkles or creases that could interfere with the accuracy of your measurements and sewing.
2. Measure and Mark the Hem
To determine the desired hem length, try on the pants and pin the hem where you want it. You can use a measuring tape or a ruler to ensure that the hem is even all around. Once you have pinned the hem, remove the pants and transfer the pin markings to the wrong side of the fabric using chalk or a fabric marker.
To calculate the width of the hem, you can use the following formula: 1/2″ (for a single-fold hem) or 1″ (for a double-fold hem) plus the desired length of the finished hem.
| Hem Type | Width |
|---|---|
| Single-fold hem | 1/2″ + finished hem length |
| Double-fold hem | 1″ + finished hem length |
For example, if you want a 2-inch finished hem length, you would need a hem width of 1/2″ + 2″ = 2.5″ for a single-fold hem, or 1″ + 2″ = 3″ for a double-fold hem.
3. Mark the Hemline
Use a ruler or measuring tape to draw a straight line parallel to the existing hemline at the width you have determined for the finished hem. This line will serve as your new hemline.
Setting Up the Sewing Machine
1. Choose the Correct Needle and Thread
Select a needle size appropriate for the fabric. Use a sharp needle for lightweight fabrics and a stronger needle for heavier fabrics. Choose thread that matches the color and weight of the fabric.
2. Thread the Machine
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to thread the machine. The bobbin should be wound and inserted into the bobbin case. The thread should be passed through the tension disks and the needle.
3. Adjust the Stitch Settings
For hemming pants, a straight stitch is typically used. Set the stitch length to a small value, around 2.5-3.0 mm. This will create a dense stitch that will hold the hem securely.
Adjust the tension settings according to the fabric. The tension should be tight enough to prevent the stitches from being loose, but not so tight that the fabric puckers.
Consider the following table for typical tension settings:
| Fabric Type | Tension Setting |
|---|---|
| Lightweight Fabrics | 3-4 |
| Medium-Weight Fabrics | 4-5 |
| Heavyweight Fabrics | 5-6 |
Using a Sewing Guide
A sewing guide is a helpful tool for hemming pants, especially if you’re new to sewing or don’t feel confident with your freehand skills. It’s a small, adjustable device that attaches to your sewing machine’s presser foot and guides the fabric as you sew, ensuring a straight and even hem.
Steps to Use a Sewing Guide:
1. Measure and mark the desired hem length on the pants legs.
2. Fold the fabric up along the marked line and press it to create a crease.
3. Attach the sewing guide to the presser foot of your sewing machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Adjust the width of the guide to the desired hem width (usually 1/2 inch to 1 inch).
5. Position the folded fabric under the sewing guide and sew along the edge, following the guide to keep the stitches straight and consistent.
Tips for Using a Sewing Guide:
* Experiment with different hem widths to find the one that looks best on your pants.
* Use a matching thread color to create a seamless finish.
* Practice on a scrap piece of fabric before hemming the actual pants to ensure you’re comfortable with the technique.
| Hem Width | Uses | Looks |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2 inch | Casual pants, jeans | Neat and tidy |
| 3/4 inch | Dress pants, skirts | Slightly more formal |
| 1 inch | Wide-leg pants, culottes | Flowy and bohemian |
Finishing the Hem
To give your hem a polished look, you can finish it with a blind hem stitch, a serger, or a zigzag stitch.
Blind Hem Stitch
Suitable for sheer fabrics and soft, drapey fabrics, a blind hem stitch creates an invisible finish by hiding the stitches within the hem fold.
Serger
A serger quickly and efficiently trims, overcasts, and stitches the hem in one step, creating a durable and professional-looking finish for stretchy and knit fabrics.
Zigzag Stitch
Use a wide zigzag stitch to reinforce the hem allowance and prevent fraying. This stitch is suitable for firm fabrics such as denim or upholstery fabrics.
Here’s a comparison of the three finishing techniques:
| Finishing Technique | Suitable Fabrics | Durability | Ease of Execution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blind Hem Stitch | Sheer fabrics, soft fabrics | Moderate | Difficult |
| Serger | Stretchy fabrics, knit fabrics | Excellent | Requires specialized equipment |
| Zigzag Stitch | Firm fabrics | Good | Easy |
Ironing the Hem
Step 1: Fold the Hem Up
Once you have marked the hem, fold the hem along the mark, bringing the raw edge of the fabric up to meet the wrong side of the fabric.
Step 2: Pin the Hem in Place
Use pins or clips to secure the hem in place. Start pinning from the center and work your way out to the sides. Make sure the pins are perpendicular to the hemline to prevent the fabric from shifting.
Step 3: Iron the Hem
Heat your iron to the appropriate setting for the fabric you are using. Place a damp pressing cloth over the hem and iron it firmly. This will help to press the crease into the fabric and hold the hem in place.
Step 4: Topstitch the Hem
Once the hem is pressed, topstitch it in place using a sewing machine. Start sewing from the center of the hem and work your way out to the sides. Use a straight stitch and a small stitch length to create a secure and invisible hem.
Step 5: Iron the Hem Again
After topstitching the hem, iron it again to set the stitches and give the garment a finished look.
Step 6: Remove the Pins
Once the hem is ironed, remove the pins or clips.
Step 7: Trim Any Excess Thread
Use scissors to trim any excess thread that may be hanging from the hem.
Step 8: Detailed Guide to Applying a Hemmed Edge
When applying a hemmed edge, there are several factors to consider to ensure a professional-looking finish:
Fabric Type: Different fabrics require different hem techniques. For lightweight fabrics, a narrow hem is preferred, while heavier fabrics can accommodate a wider hem.
Hem Width: The width of the hem depends on the desired style and the fabric’s weight. A typical hem width ranges from 1/2 inch to 2 inches.
Fold Direction: The direction of the fold can enhance the hem’s durability. An inward fold creates a stronger hem, while an outward fold provides a more decorative finish.
Stitch Type: The stitch type used to secure the hem affects its appearance and strength. A blind stitch is invisible from the right side, while a topstitch adds a decorative element.
Ironing: Ironing the hem before and after stitching helps define the fold and prevent puckering.
| Factor | Considerations |
|---|---|
| Fabric Type | Lightweight: Narrow hem Heavyweight: Wide hem |
| Hem Width | 1/2 inch – 2 inches |
| Fold Direction | Inward: Durable Outward: Decorative |
| Stitch Type | Blind stitch: Invisible Topstitch: Decorative |
| Ironing | Before: Defines fold After: Prevents puckering |
How To Hem Pants Using A Sewing Machine
Hemming pants is a relatively simple task that can be completed in a few easy steps. With the right tools and a little bit of patience, you can achieve a professional-looking hem that will last for years to come.
Before you begin, make sure that you have all of the necessary materials, including:
- A pair of pants that need to be hemmed
- A sewing machine
- Thread
- A needle
- A measuring tape or ruler
- A pair of scissors
- An iron and ironing board (optional)
Once you have gathered your materials, you can begin the hemming process by following these steps:
- Put on the pants and mark the desired hem length with a pin or chalk. Make sure that the hem is even all the way around.
- Remove the pants and fold up the hem to the desired length. Press the fold with an iron to create a crease.
- Unfold the hem and fold it up again, this time by 1 inch. Press the fold again.
- Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches the color of your pants. Insert the needle into the machine and select a straight stitch.
- Place the pants under the presser foot of the sewing machine, aligning the folded edge of the hem with the edge of the presser foot. Begin sewing around the hem, making sure to stitch close to the edge of the fabric.
- Once you have sewn all the way around the hem, remove the pants from the sewing machine and trim any excess thread.
Your pants are now hemmed! With a little bit of practice, you can achieve a professional-looking hem that will last for years to come.
People Also Ask
How do I choose the right needle for hemming pants?
The best needle for hemming pants will be a sharp, thin needle that is designed for use with lightweight fabrics. A size 10 or 11 needle is a good choice for most fabrics.
What is the best thread for hemming pants?
The best thread for hemming pants is a strong, durable thread that matches the color of the fabric. A cotton or polyester thread is a good choice.
How do I prevent the hem from fraying?
There are a few things you can do to prevent the hem from fraying, including:
- Use a zigzag stitch to sew the hem.
- Apply a Fray Check product to the edge of the fabric.
- Fold the hem up twice before sewing it.
