#5 Simple Steps to Sew a Facing as a Trim Element

In the world of sewing, adding trims can elevate a garment from ordinary to extraordinary. A facing, while primarily used to finish raw edges and add structure, can also be transformed into a stunning trim element. This technique is versatile, offering endless possibilities for customization. Whether you’re adding visual interest to a neckline, enhancing a hemline, or creating a statement piece, sewing a facing as a trim element is a must-know skill. In this article, we will delve into the steps involved in this technique, along with tips and variations to inspire your creativity.

To begin, choose a fabric for the facing that complements or contrasts the main fabric of your garment. Cut a strip of fabric on the bias for greater flexibility. This angle allows the facing to follow the curves of your neckline or hemline seamlessly. Stitch the facing to the right side of the garment, carefully aligning the edges. Ensure that the stitching is even and secure, as it will become a decorative element.

Next, fold the facing to the wrong side of the garment and press it flat. This will conceal the stitching and create a clean finish. To enhance the trim element further, you can topstitch around the edge of the facing using a contrasting thread. This additional stitching will add visual interest and durability to your trim. Additionally, you can experiment with different stitch patterns, such as a zigzag stitch or a decorative stitch, to create a unique look.

Choosing the Right Facing Fabric

The fabric you choose for your facing should complement the fabric of your garment, both in appearance and function. Here are some factors to consider when selecting the right facing fabric:

Fabric Type

The facing should be made of a lightweight and pliable fabric that drapes well. Consider the following options:

Cotton: A versatile choice that is breathable, wrinkle-resistant, and easy to sew.
Silk: A luxurious option that provides a smooth, lustrous finish.

Batiste: A sheer, lightweight cotton fabric that is perfect for delicate garments.

Color and Pattern

The facing can be color-matched to the garment fabric or used as a design element to add contrast or embellishment. Consider the following options:

Matching: The facing is the same color and pattern as the garment fabric, creating a seamless look.
Contrasting: The facing is a different color or pattern, adding a pop of interest to the garment.

Embroidered or embellished: The facing is adorned with embroidery, lace, or other embellishments, adding a touch of elegance.

Weight and Drape

The weight and drape of the facing should complement the weight and drape of the garment fabric. A heavier facing will provide more support, while a lighter facing will create a softer, more flowing look. Consider the following table for guidance:

Garment Fabric Weight	Facing Fabric Weight
Lightweight (e.g., chiffon)	Lightweight (e.g., batiste)
Medium weight (e.g., cotton)	Medium weight (e.g., voile)
Heavyweight (e.g., tweed)	Heavyweight (e.g., linen)

Cutting the Facing

1. Measure and mark the facing strip. Determine the length by measuring the edge it will be facing. Add enough extra length to accommodate any shaping or curves, such as a V-neckline or a rounded hem. The width of the facing strip should be twice the width of the desired finished facing, plus seam allowances. For example, if you want a 1-inch finished facing with 1/2-inch seam allowances, cut a strip that is 2 inches wide plus 1 inch (for a total of 3 inches wide).

2. Cut the facing strip on the bias. This will give the facing a more fluid and stretchy drape, which is especially important for curves and edges that experience tension. To cut on the bias, lay the fabric flat and draw a diagonal line that intersects the selvage at a 45-degree angle. Cut along the line. Mark the right side and wrong side of the facing strip.

3. Interface the facing (optional). Interfacing gives the facing extra support and structure, making it less likely to roll or fray. If desired, cut a piece of interfacing the same size as the facing strip.Fuse or sew the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Pinning the Facing to the Garment

To ensure a precise and secure attachment, pinning the facing to the garment is crucial. Begin by aligning the raw edges of the facing with the seam allowance on the garment. Use plenty of sharp pins, spacing them evenly around the perimeter. Ensure that the facing is smooth and taut, with no puckers or wrinkles.

Laying the Facing Flat

Before pinning, it’s essential to lay the facing flat to prevent any distortion or stretching. Use a pressing cloth and an iron to gently press the facing, ensuring it retains its natural shape and size.

Pinning Technique

When pinning, insert the pins perpendicular to the fabric’s edge. Avoid angled pins, as they can distort the fabric and cause uneven stitching. Hold the facing taut while pinning to prevent it from shifting during the sewing process. Start by pinning the center points of the facing and garment, then continue pinning outwards in even intervals.

Tips for Pinning	Why It’s Important
Use plenty of sharp pins	Ensures a secure and precise attachment
Space pins evenly	Prevents distortion and puckering
Lay facing flat before pinning	Maintains the natural shape and size of the facing
Insert pins perpendicular to the edge	Prevents fabric distortion and uneven stitching
Hold facing taut while pinning	Prevents shifting during sewing

Stitching the Facing

1. Baste the Facing to the Neckline. Fold the facing in half lengthwise, bringing the raw edges together. Align the raw edge of the facing with the raw edge of the neckline, right sides together. Pin the facing in place, then baste stitch it to the neckline.

2. Fold the Facing to the Inside. Fold the facing to the inside of the garment, along the basted line. Press the facing flat.

3. Topstitch the Facing. Topstitch the facing to the neckline, close to the folded edge. This will secure the facing in place and give it a finished look.

4. Finishing the Facing by Hand

Alternatively, you can also finish the facing by hand using a slip stitch. This method is slightly more time-consuming but it gives a more polished and delicate finish.

To do this, you will need to use a small needle and thread that matches the color of your fabric.

Start by folding the edge of the facing over by about 1/4 inch and pressing it in place. Then, insert the needle into the fold of the fabric, just below the pressed edge. Bring the needle up through the fabric at the top of the fold, and then insert it back into the fold about 1/4 inch away.

Pull the thread through to create a small stitch that secures the facing to the neckline.

Continue stitching in this manner around the entire neckline, pulling the thread taut to hold the facing securely in place. When you reach the end, tie off the thread and trim any excess.

This method of finishing the facing is especially effective on delicate fabrics or fabrics that fray easily.

Trimming and Grading the Facing

Once the facing is sewn in place, it’s time to trim and grade it. Trimming removes any excess fabric, while grading helps the facing lay flat and reduces bulk. To trim the facing:

Trim the seam allowance on the facing side to 1/4 inch.
Grade the seam allowance on the garment side to 1/8 inch.
Clip the seam allowance at any corners or curves to help the facing lay flat.
Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press.
Topstitch around the edge of the facing, close to the seam line, to secure it in place.

Grading the Seam Allowance

Grading the seam allowance involves thinning the fabric to reduce bulk. To grade the seam allowance:

Trim the seam allowance to the desired width (e.g., 1/8 inch).
Using pinking shears or a rotary cutter with a pinking blade, cut a series of small, evenly spaced notches into the seam allowance.
The notches will weaken the fabric and allow it to lay flat when pressed.

Grading Width	Notch Spacing
1/8 inch	1/8 – 1/4 inch
1/4 inch	1/4 – 1/2 inch
1/2 inch	1/2 – 1 inch

Pressing the Facing

Once the facing is attached to the garment, it’s important to press it carefully to ensure a neat and professional finish. Here are the steps for pressing the facing:

1. Press the Seam Allowances

Use a hot iron to press the seam allowances open. This will help to flatten the seam and reduce bulk.

2. Press the Facing Flat

Place the garment on a pressing board with the facing side up. Press the facing flat using a hot iron and a pressing cloth to protect the fabric. Avoid pressing directly on the stitches.

3. Flip the Facing Back

Fold the facing back over the seam allowance and align the edges. Press the facing into place using a hot iron and a pressing cloth. Ensure that the stitches are hidden and the facing lays smoothly against the garment.

4. Topstitch the Facing

To secure the facing and create a decorative element, topstitch it down along the seam line. Use a matching thread color and a medium stitch length. This will help to keep the facing in place and add a bit of visual interest.

5. Press the Finished Facing

Once the facing is topstitched, give it a final press using a hot iron and a pressing cloth. This will help to set the stitches and create a sharp and polished look. Press both the facing and the garment together to ensure that they are bonded securely.

6. Additional Tips for Pressing the Facing

Here are some additional tips for pressing the facing:

Use a sharp needle when topstitching the facing to avoid snagging the fabric.
If the facing is made of a delicate fabric, use a lower heat setting on the iron.
To achieve a more polished look, use a tailor’s ham or a pressing board with a curved surface to press the facing.
Allow the facing to cool completely before handling it to prevent it from stretching or losing its shape.

Applying Topstitching to the Facing

Once the facing is sewn in place, you can add a decorative touch by topstitching around the edge. This will help to secure the facing and give your garment a more polished look.

To topstitch the facing, you will need:

A sewing machine with a topstitching foot
Matching thread
A ruler or measuring tape
A marking pen or chalk

Follow these steps to topstitch the facing:

1. Measure the distance from the edge of the facing to the seam line. This will be the width of your topstitching.
2. Mark the width of the topstitching around the edge of the facing using a marking pen or chalk.
3. Attach the topstitching foot to your sewing machine.
4. Thread the machine with matching thread.
5. Start sewing at one end of the facing, and topstitch around the edge, following the marked line.
6. Be sure to keep the stitches even and consistent.
7. When you reach the end of the facing, overlap the stitches by about 1/2 inch and backstitch to secure.

Here are some additional tips for topstitching the facing:

Tip	Description
Use a sharp needle	This will help to prevent the fabric from puckering.
Sew slowly	This will help to ensure that the stitches are even and consistent.
Use a light touch	This will help to prevent the fabric from stretching or distorting.

Using a Bias Facing as a Trim Element

Bias facing can add a decorative touch to garments and home decor items. Here’s how to use it as a trim element:

Materials:

Fabric for the facing
Iron and ironing board
Sewing machine
Thread
Fabric glue (optional)

Instructions:

1. Cut the facing fabric on the bias. This will give it a stretchy and pliable finish.

2. Fold the facing in half lengthwise and press.

3. Open the facing up and fold one edge over 1/4 inch. Press.

4. Fold the other edge over the first fold, enclosing the raw edge. Press.

5. Topstitch the facing close to the folded edge, about 1/8 inch from the edge.

6. Apply fabric glue to the back of the facing if desired, for extra hold.

7. Position the facing on the garment or item, right side up. Pin in place.

8. Sew the facing in place with a slip stitch or other invisible stitch.

9. To create a more elaborate trim, consider using multiple layers of bias facing in different colors or fabrics. Layer them and sew them together, then attach them to the garment as described above. You can also embellish the facing with beads, sequins, or other decorative elements.

Materials You’ll Need

Fabric for the garment
Fabric for the facing
Thread
Sewing machine
Iron and ironing board

Step-by-Step Instructions

Cut out the facing pieces from the fabric.
Pin the facing pieces to the garment, right sides together.
Sew the facing pieces to the garment, using a narrow stitch.
Trim the excess fabric from the facing.
Press the facing to finish.

Troubleshooting Common Facing Issues

1. The facing is too loose.

This can be fixed by sewing the facing with a shorter stitch length. You can also try using a heavier thread, which will help to hold the facing in place.

2. The facing is too tight.

This can be fixed by sewing the facing with a longer stitch length. You can also try using a lighter thread, which will help to prevent the facing from puckering.

3. The facing is not lying flat.

This can be fixed by pressing the facing with a hot iron. You can also try using a starch spray, which will help to keep the facing in place.

4. The facing is frayed.

This can be fixed by using a serger or a pinking shears to finish the edges of the facing. You can also try using a fray check product, which will help to prevent the facing from fraying.

5. The facing is too short.

This can be fixed by cutting a new facing piece that is longer than the original facing. You can also try using a bias tape to extend the length of the facing.

6. The facing is too long.

This can be fixed by cutting a new facing piece that is shorter than the original facing. You can also try using a bias tape to shorten the length of the facing.

7. The facing is sewn on crooked.

This can be fixed by carefully unpicking the facing and sewing it back on again. You can also try using a seam guide to help you keep the facing straight.

8. The facing is not sewn securely.

This can be fixed by sewing the facing with a stronger thread or by using a double stitch. You can also try using a topstitch to reinforce the facing.

9. The facing is not finished properly.

This can be fixed by pressing the facing with a hot iron and by using a topstitch to finish the edges of the facing.

10. The facing is not the right color or fabric.

This can be fixed by choosing a facing fabric that is the same color and fabric as the garment. You can also try using a contrasting fabric to create a more interesting look.

How To Sew A Facing As A Trim Element

A facing is a piece of fabric that is sewn to the edge of another piece of fabric to finish the raw edge and provide a clean, finished look. Facings can also be used as a trim element to add a decorative touch to a garment. To sew a facing as a trim element, follow these steps:

Cut a piece of fabric for the facing that is twice the width of the finished facing plus 1 inch. The length of the facing should be the same as the edge of the garment that you are finishing.
Fold the facing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.
Open up the facing and fold the raw edges to the center crease. Press.
Fold the facing in half again, wrong sides together, and press.
Pin the facing to the edge of the garment, right sides together.
Sew the facing to the garment using a narrow zigzag stitch.
Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press.
Topstitch the facing to the garment using a topstitching stitch.