When your jeans no longer fit quite right, hemming them can be a quick and easy way to restore their comfort and style. Hemming jeans using the original hem is a technique that preserves the factory finish, ensuring a professional-looking result. This method is particularly useful for jeans with unique or decorative hems that you want to maintain. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of hemming jeans using the original hem, providing detailed instructions and helpful tips to achieve a flawless finish.
To begin, gather your materials. You’ll need a pair of jeans that are too long, a measuring tape, a pair of fabric scissors, a sewing needle, thread that matches the color of your jeans, and a seam ripper. Before you start, turn your jeans inside out and lay them flat on a table. Mark the desired hem length on the inside of the leg, using the measuring tape. Align the original hem with the marked line and pin it in place.
Now, it’s time to sew the new hem. Using a needle and thread, stitch along the pinned line, taking small, even stitches. When you reach the end of the seam, remove the pins and tie off the thread securely. To reinforce the hem, fold up the original hem by about 1/4 inch and stitch it down. This will create a sturdy and durable hem that will last through multiple washes and wears. Once you’re finished, turn your jeans right side out and admire your freshly hemmed masterpiece. The original hem method ensures a seamless and professional-looking finish, making your jeans look as good as new.
Preserving the Original Hemline
Hemming jeans with the original hemline is a great way to maintain the original style of your jeans while ensuring a perfect fit. It involves carefully cutting and reattaching the original hem, preserving the original stitching and details. Here’s a detailed guide for preserving the original hemline of your jeans:
Materials you’ll need:
- Sharp sewing shears or a seam ripper
- Heavy-duty needle
- Matching thread in the original stitching color
- Hand-sewing needle
- Iron and ironing board
Step 1: Prepare the Jeans
Begin by putting on the jeans and marking the new hem length with pins or chalk. Remove the jeans and lay them flat on a table, aligning the inside seams. Gently fold up the excess fabric to the desired hem length, ensuring the fold is even and parallel to the original hem.
Carefully cut along the marked line, making sure not to cut off the original hem. This is the most crucial step, as you want to preserve as much of the original hem and stitching as possible.
Step 2: Reattach the Hem
Turn the jeans right side out and slip stitch the folded edge to the original hem. Use a heavy-duty needle and matching thread. Start by inserting the needle through the folded edge, about 1/8 inch from the original stitching. Then, insert the needle into the original hem, about 1/16 inch from the cut edge. Bring the thread through and pull it taut. Repeat this process along the entire hemline.
For a neater finish, hand-sew a running stitch along the folded edge, about 1/16 inch from the original stitching. This will help conceal the hem’s raw edge and provide additional reinforcement.
Step 3: Finishing Touches
Once the hem is reattached, press it flat with an iron on a low heat setting. This will help set the stitches and give the hem a professional finish. If desired, you can also topstitch the hem to the jeans for a more secure and decorative touch.
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Preserves the original style and details of the jeans | Requires more skill and precision than cutting a new hem |
| Provides a more durable hem than a new hem | May not be suitable for all types of jeans |
| Can be done at home with basic sewing supplies | Can be time-consuming, especially for longer hems |
Measuring and Marking the New Hem Length
Step 1: Measure and Calculate the Desired Hem Length
Don your jeans and stand in front of a full-length mirror. Determine the desired length of the hem by measuring from the waist to the bottom of the pant leg. Consider the type of shoe you intend to wear with the jeans and add an extra 1-2 inches for a cuffed hem or a slight break.
Step 2: Transferring the Measurement to the Jeans
Create a convenient work area with a level surface and good lighting. Lay the jeans flat with the waistband facing up. Fold the excess fabric at the bottom to achieve the desired length, ensuring the hemline is even across both legs.
Pin the folded fabric in place along the new hemline. Use a washable fabric marker to draw a straight line along the pins to create a guide for the new seam.
Step 3: Unfold and Mark the Original Hem
Carefully unfold the folded fabric and locate the original hemline. Use the fabric marker to make a small mark on the original hem approximately 1 inch above the new hemline.
| Measurement | Mark on Original Hem |
|---|---|
| Desired Hem Length | Straight Line |
| Original Hemline | Small Mark 1 inch Above |
Step 4: Removing the Original Hem
Align the bottom edge of the fabric marker line with the small mark on the original hem. Carefully cut along the marker line, removing the original hem completely.
Tips:
- Use a sharp pair of scissors to ensure clean and precise cuts.
- Take your time and measure accurately to avoid mistakes.
- If you are inexperienced in sewing, seek assistance from a professional seamstress to ensure a professional-looking finish.
Utilizing a Sewing Machine for a Clean Finish
1. Prepare Your Tools and Materials
Gather your sewing machine, thread, needle, seam ripper, iron, and a pair of sharp scissors. Choose a thread that matches the color of your jeans and a needle suitable for denim.
2. Remove the Original Hem
Unfold the original hem and carefully cut off any excess fabric or stitching. Use a seam ripper to gently undo any remaining stitches. Ensure you leave enough fabric to accommodate your desired hem length.
3. Fold and Iron the New Hem
a) Fold the First Time:
Fold the raw edge of the jeans up by the desired hem width (e.g., 1.5 inches). Press firmly with an iron to create a crease along the folded edge.
b) Fold the Second Time:
Fold the fabric up again by the same width (1.5 inches), aligning the crease from the first fold with the raw edge. Press again to create a second crease.
c) Iron the Hem:
Thoroughly iron the folded hem to set the creases and ensure a crisp finish. The iron should be set to a medium heat appropriate for denim.
4. Stitch the Hem
Position the jeans under the sewing machine foot, aligning the folded hem edge with the needle. Select a zigzag stitch for added durability and sew along the crease created in step 3c. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching for reinforcement.
5. Finish the Hem
Trim any excess thread and press the hem one last time to secure it. You now have a professionally finished hem that replicates the original style of your jeans.
Aligning the Hem and Pinning It Securely
Once you’ve marked your desired hem length, it’s time to align the hem and pin it securely.
Step 1: Fold the Hem Up
Fold the bottom edge of the jeans up to your marked hem line. Ensure the fold is even and aligned throughout the leg.
Step 2: Align the Selvage
Place the salvage of the jeans over the folded hem, aligning the raw edges of both fabrics. The salvage is the finished edge on the side of the denim that prevents fraying.
Step 3: Smooth and Pin in Place
Gently smooth out the hem, removing any wrinkles or creases. Insert pins perpendicular to the hem, spacing them evenly about 1-2 inches apart. Start pinning from the center and work your way out to the sides.
Step 4: Ensure a Secure and Even Fit
Check the alignment and fit of the hem by standing up and looking in a full-length mirror. Step into the jeans and make sure the hem is level and sits evenly on the floor. Walk around and bend your legs slightly to ensure the jeans move comfortably without the hem bunching or pulling.
If you notice any unevenness or discomfort, adjust the hem by releasing the pins, smoothing the fabric, and repinning. Take your time and pay attention to detail to achieve a professional-looking and well-fitting hem.
Stitching the Hem with Precision
1. Pin the Hem
Once the hem is folded, pin it in place along the fold. Start at the center and work your way out to the sides. Use plenty of pins to ensure the hem stays secure.
2. Choose a Stitch
There are several different stitches you can use to hem jeans. A blind stitch is a good choice for a subtle finish, while a topstitch is more durable and visible. Choose the stitch that best suits your needs.
3. Adjust the Machine Settings
Adjust the stitch length and tension according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For a blind stitch, use a small stitch length and low tension. For a topstitch, use a longer stitch length and higher tension.
4. Stitch the Hem
Start stitching at the center of the hem and work your way out to the sides. Hold the fabric taut and guide it through the machine evenly. If you’re using a blind stitch, be sure to keep the needle close to the fold of the hem.
5. Finish the Hem
Once the hem is stitched, finish it by pressing it with an iron. If necessary, you can trim any excess thread. For a more durable finish, you can also reinforce the hem by stitching over it a second time.
| Stitch Type | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Blind Stitch | For a subtle finish |
| Topstitch | For a more durable and visible finish |
Reinforcing the Stitch Line for Durability
To enhance the longevity of your hem, consider reinforcing the stitch line with one or more of these techniques:
1. Topstitching
Sew a second row of stitches along the original hem to create a visible and durable seam. This method is especially suitable for heavy-duty fabrics like denim.
2. Bartacking
Reinforce the corners and stress points of the hem by sewing several small, cross-shaped stitches. This method adds extra strength to areas that experience significant wear.
3. Zigzag Stitch
Use a zigzag stitch along the hemline to prevent fraying and add flexibility. This stitch type is particularly effective for delicate fabrics or curved hems.
4. Stitch Reinforcement Tape
Apply a thin, heat-activated tape to the inside of the hem before sewing. This tape provides additional support and prevents the stitch line from stretching or breaking.
5. Fusible Interfacing
Cut a small piece of fusible interfacing slightly wider than the hemline. Iron it onto the wrong side of the hem before sewing to add stiffness and prevent the fabric from stretching.
6. Triple Sewing
Sew the hem three times instead of two. This creates a much stronger seam that will hold up even with repeated wear and washing. To triple sew, start by sewing the hem as usual. Then, fold the hem up again and sew a second row of stitches along the original stitching. Finally, fold the hem up one more time and sew a third row of stitches, covering the second row.
Trim Excess Fabric and Clean Up Loose Threads
Once you have the new hem pinned in place, it’s time to trim the excess fabric. Use a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut the fabric away, leaving about a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Once the excess fabric is trimmed, go back and clean up any loose threads. Use a pair of tweezers or a seam ripper to carefully remove any stray threads that could get caught in the hem when you sew it down.
Here’s a more detailed guide to trimming excess fabric and cleaning up loose threads:
Trimming Excess Fabric
- Fold the jeans in half lengthwise, aligning the new hem with the original hem.
- Use a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut the fabric away, leaving about a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Trim the excess fabric around the entire hem, being careful not to cut into the new hem.
Cleaning Up Loose Threads
- Use a pair of tweezers or a seam ripper to carefully remove any stray threads that are hanging off the hem.
- Be sure to remove all loose threads, as they can get caught in the hem when you sew it down.
- Once all the loose threads are removed, the hem is ready to be sewn down.
Here is a table summarizing the steps for trimming excess fabric and cleaning up loose threads:
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Fold the jeans in half lengthwise, aligning the new hem with the original hem. |
| 2 | Use a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut the fabric away, leaving about a 1/4-inch seam allowance. |
| 3 | Trim the excess fabric around the entire hem, being careful not to cut into the new hem. |
| 4 | Use a pair of tweezers or a seam ripper to carefully remove any stray threads that are hanging off the hem. |
| 5 | Be sure to remove all loose threads, as they can get caught in the hem when you sew it down. |
Pressing the Hem for a Professional Appearance
Once you have hemmed your jeans and creased them properly, it’s time to press them to give them a professional-looking finish.
Materials
- Iron
- Ironing board
- Pressing cloth or parchment paper
Instructions
-
Lay your jeans flat on the ironing board and smooth out the hemline with your hands.
-
Place the pressing cloth or parchment paper over the hemmed area to protect it from the heat of the iron.
-
Turn your iron to the appropriate setting for your jeans’ fabric.
-
Gently press down on the hemmed area, applying steady pressure. Avoid pressing directly on the stitching.
-
Hold the iron for a few seconds in each spot to allow the heat to penetrate the fabric.
-
Repeat the process until the hem is completely pressed and crease-free.
-
Allow the hem to cool completely before wearing or storing your jeans.
Tips
- Use a pressing cloth or parchment paper if your hem is made of a delicate fabric. This will prevent the iron from damaging the fabric.
- Apply gentle pressure to the hem when pressing. Too much pressure can cause the fabric to stretch or distort.
- Hold the iron for a few seconds in each spot to allow the heat to penetrate the fabric. This will help the crease to stay in place.
- Allow the hem to cool completely before wearing or storing your jeans. This will help the crease to set.
| Troubleshooting Hemming Problems | |
|---|---|
| Hem is too loose | Restitch the hem with a narrower stitch width or use a heavier thread. |
| Hem is too tight | Restitch the hem with a wider stitch width or use a lighter thread. |
| Hem is wavy | Use a crease marker to create a straight line before hemming. |
| Hem is puckered | Trim away any excess fabric from the seam allowance. |
Ensuring a Comfortable and Secure Fit
1. Measure Accurately
Take precise measurements to ensure a snug yet comfortable fit. Measure from the waist to the desired hem length along the inseam.
2. Mark the Hem
Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen to mark the desired hem height on the inside of the jeans. This will serve as a guide for cutting and sewing.
3. Pin the Hem in Place
Fold the hem up to the marked line and secure it with pins. Ensure that the pins are placed perpendicular to the fabric, parallel to the hem line.
4. Fold and Press the Hem
Fold the hem over the pins, creating a double-fold. Use an iron on a low setting to press the hem flat and set the crease.
5. Topstitch the Hem
Using a sewing machine, topstitch the hem in place close to the folded edge. Choose a thread color that complements the jeans.
6. Remove the Pins
Once the hem is securely sewn, remove the pins carefully.
7. Trim Excess Fabric
If necessary, trim any excess fabric that extends beyond the topstitching.
8. Iron the Jeans
Give the jeans a final press to complete the hemming process and ensure a professional finish.
9. Consider Your Denim’s Weight and Stretch
The weight and stretch of your denim can influence the hemming technique.
| Denim Weight | Hemming Method |
|---|---|
| Lightweight | Single or double-fold hem, topstitched |
| Medium-weight | Double-fold hem, serged or topstitched |
| Heavyweight | Double-fold hem, reinforced with fusing or interfacing, topstitched |
| Stretchy | Double-fold hem, sewn with a stretch stitch or serged |
Materials You’ll Need:
- Jeans
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Fabric chalk or pen
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
- Iron and ironing board
Instructions:
1. Measure and Mark the Hem
Measure the desired length of the jeans. Mark the desired length on the inside of the leg using fabric chalk or pen.
2. Fold the Hem Up
Fold the bottom edge of the jeans up to the marked line. Press the fold with an iron.
3. Pin the Hem
Pin the hem in place along the folded edge. Start by pinning at the side seams and work your way around.
4. Sew the Hem
Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew a straight stitch along the pinned edge. Remove the pins as you sew.
5. Press the Hem
Once the hem is sewn, press it again with an iron to set the stitches.
Troubleshooting Common Hemming Problems
1. The hem is uneven.
Check if the jeans were folded evenly before sewing. If not, unpick the stitches and refold the hem. Also, make sure the needle is sharp and the tension is correct.
2. The hem is too tight.
Unpick the stitches and refold the hem, making the fold a little wider. If the fabric is especially thick, you may need to use a wider stitch length.
3. The hem is too loose.
Unpick the stitches and refold the hem, making the fold a little narrower. You may also want to use a smaller stitch length.
4. The hem is fraying.
Finish the raw edge of the hem with a serger or zigzag stitch before sewing it down. This will prevent the fabric from fraying.
5. The hem is showing on the right side.
Make sure to use a small stitch length and sew as close to the edge of the fabric as possible. You may also want to use a blind hem stitch, which will be less visible.
6. The hem is puckering.
Make sure the fabric is evenly distributed before sewing. You may also want to use a smaller stitch length or try stretching the fabric as you sew.
7. The hem is coming undone.
Check if the stitches are loose. If so, reinforce the stitches by sewing over them again. You may also want to use a stronger thread.
8. The hem is too long or too short.
If the hem is too long, simply unpick the stitches and refold the hem shorter. If the hem is too short, you may need to add a new piece of fabric to the bottom of the jeans.
9. The hem is not straight.
Check if the jeans were folded evenly before sewing. If not, unpick the stitches and refold the hem. Also, make sure to use a ruler or measuring tape to guide you as you sew.
10. The hem is too bulky.
If the fabric of your jeans is thick or bulky, you may need to thin it out before hemming. You can do this by cutting away some of the excess fabric from the inside of the hem. You can also try using a smaller stitch length or a blind hem stitch.
How to Hem Jeans Using Original Hem
Hemming jeans using the original hem is a simple and effective way to shorten them while maintaining their original look. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
- Turn the jeans inside out and lay them flat on a surface.
- Fold up the hem to the desired length, aligning the original hem with the new fold.
- Pin the hem in place at regular intervals, making sure the stitches are even.
- Sew along the folded edge, using a matching thread and a small needle.
- Trim any excess fabric and remove the pins.
- Turn the jeans right side out and press the hem to flatten it.
People Also Ask
How do I prevent the hem from fraying?
To prevent the hem from fraying, use a zigzag stitch when sewing or apply a fabric sealant along the edge.
Can I use a machine to hem my jeans?
Yes, you can use a sewing machine to hem your jeans. Adjust the stitch length and tension appropriately for a strong and even hem.
How do I choose the right thread color?
Match the thread color to the original hem or choose a slightly darker shade for a subtle contrast.
